Following massive refurbishments (with additional construction still underway), this resort has gone from tired to terrific. The hilltop wedding bure is its centrepiece, with fantastic views over the bay; most guests gather down the slope, where a buzzing restaurant (mains $14 to $45) and bar, ocean-facing lounge beds and massive deck frame the new lagoon pool (with swim-up cocktail bar).
If you don't mind hiking up and down the hill, renovated mountain-view rooms are good value. A boat to sister resort Beachcomber and the Cloud 9 platform leaves every morning at 8.30am for transfers and daytrips; airport pick ups/drop offs also available.