Twice a year, tens of thousands of pilgrims converge on the little town of Kulubi and its hilltop cathedral, Kulubi Gabriel, built by Ras Mekonen to thank St Gabriel for the victory over the Italians at Adwa. Many people come to express thanks for fulfilment of a wish, and babies feature prominently: up to 1000 infants may be christened during celebrations. If you’re in the area around 26 July and 28 December, it’s an amazing experience.