The journey to St Agnes' campsite is almost the best bit; you're picked up in a tractor trailer and rattle across the island down the hedge-lined lanes. The camping field is small, but wonderfully located on the island's sunset coast, surrounded by drystone walls and a sea-blue, big-sky horizon. There are his-and-hers loos, token-operated showers (60p) and lockers for device-charging.
Luggage transfer costs £3.50. The campsite also rents prepitched bell tents (from £420 per week) and three self-catering cottages (£385 to £1045 per week). Bring a torch, as the island gets very, very dark.
