The decor in this former railway hotel is varnished floorboards, leather settles and exposed red brick, but the best bit is downstairs: the brewery's gleaming stainless-steel tubs and tubes. The building's past is the inspiration for the brews' names: fruity Rail Ale, sharp and sweet Piston Bitter and well-rounded Sleeper Heavy.
Flavoursome food includes slow-cooked shoulder of West Country lamb, a range of ploughman's platters made with local Quickes cheddar, and steak and Sleeper Ale pie. Newton St Cyres is on the A377, 5 miles north of Exeter. Train services from Exeter (return £7) chug into the village in time for supper; the return trip just after 11pm (10.30pm on Sunday) is very handy indeed.