Thanks to Bedouin raids and marble pilfering, not much remains of the once-grand Byzantine pilgrimage centre of Martyroupolis, although the outline of its mammoth basilica is still easily traced. A modest wooden chapel has been built over the basilica's altar with the altar stone still in place. A piece of St Mena's body is kept in a cabinet here. From the chapel, a row of stubby column remnants leads to the saint's tomb.
Changes in the water table have caused degradation to the excavations, and the site has been placed on Unesco's endangered monuments list. Despite the damage to the site, travellers interested in Egypt's Coptic history will find Abu Mena sheds some light on Egypt's leading role in the early Christian era. The site is along a desert track (accessible by normal vehicles) just to the south of the Monastery of St Mena. If you're unsure of directions, ask at the monastery.
