Nestled against the beach, this friendly, wind-battered classic is the most popular guesthouse in town. Rooms are clean if a little weathered, with antiquated bathrooms, softer-than-wonderbread mattresses and pretty darned nice views. There’s no hot water, but there’s a good-value restaurant. Octogenarian owner Aida is an inspiration, as is the ageing French bulldog.
You'll feel like you're in a medieval fort when you scale the mirador and scan the horizon for pirates.