Squirrel monkeys cavort above the walkways at highly rated Jamu lodge, where the jungle feels close at hand. Dugout-canoe trips, walks through swamps knee-deep in mud to spot the likes of anacondas and pink river dolphins, swims in lagoons and memorable nighttime excursions all contribute to a vivid wilderness experience.
The lodge also stands all by itself in the reserve, which makes it seem more remote. Facilities are clean and as high-end as it gets in the jungle, all powered by solar. Guides have a reputation for their knowledge and enthusiasm. There is a booking office in Quito.