Each of Liana Lodge's nine cabins has two double rooms, a hot shower and no electricity. The carefree riverside atmosphere revolves around bonfires, walks through the woods and a round bar overlooking the river. Packages include meals, tours (including lessons on making chicha and building a balsa raft) and canoe transport from Puerto Barantilla. Reserve in advance online.
Ask about Runi Huasi, a nearby indigenous-run lodge that’s managed by the Liana owners. Kichwa, English, Spanish, German and French are spoken here.
To get here, take a Tena bus to Santa Rosa ($2, one hour) and get off at Puerto Barantilla. Walk down the dirt road to the river, where a canoe will be waiting to pick you up.
