Adara, on the western side of Ataúro, is a quiet, palm-tree-fringed area with terrific snorkelling and diving. 'Super' Mario is an engaging local who has seven basic bungalows here with lights, fans and mosquito nets and shared drop toilet. You can hike here from Beloi (three hours), or charter a boat (US$100 return, two hours).
Day-trippers are welcome for lunch (US$5). Bring your own snorkel (and pay the US$2 reef tax).