The presence of the UN Buffer Zone (commonly called the Green Line) slashing through the capital is a prominent reminder of the island's ongoing division. Walking the Line is an eerily bizarre experience: streets come to sudden dead-ends with oil-barrel barricades; abandoned houses teeter on the brink of decay; and there are points where the flags of the Republic of Cyprus and Greece, on one side, and those of Northern Cyprus and Turkey, on the other, face off across the empty Buffer Zone.