Saraba

The kind of hearty village food that's kept farmers tilling fields for centuries is served at this modest restaurant half-hidden at the side of the Selimiye Mosque. Mains such as molohiya (a viscid meat and jute-leaves stew) and karnıyarık (stuffed aubergines) keep the courtyard tables buzzing with lunching locals. Don't forget to order the hummus, which has a distinct lemony kick.