Flanked by a roaring river and tucked into the trees on the volcano slope, this isolated lodge is also a working cattle ranch. Cabins are rustic and romantic. The river is delicious for swimming, and a wood-fired hot tub is luxurious for soaking. Room rates include guided hikes and cow milking. Horseback rides in the surrounding countryside are US$18 per person.
Amazing organic meals featuring poultry and meat from the farm are cooked over an outdoor wood-burning stove.
The lodge is about 1.3km west of the charming ranching hamlet of San Miguel; turn off the highway 5km north of Bijagua and follow the signs. It's a rough road from here to the national park; don't say we didn't warn you!