Santa Marta’s charismatic Callejón del Correo (Carrera 3) sucks you in, especially in the evening, and there’s no better doorway to the melee than LamArt, where spicy ceviche meets homemade pasta over potent coffee. The ambitious menu pulls off the near-impossible task of pleasing practically everyone, from Thai-curry lovers to Spaniards missing their Galician octopus.
You can sit outside in the jaunty street and be serenaded by a gamut of talented (and occasionally untalented) musicians, or hide in the artsy interior amid octopus murals and Don Quixote prints. For an altogether quieter experience, come back in the morning for thick breakfast pancakes smeared with fruit preserves.