Amid stunning landscapes just outside the boundaries of PNN Los Nevados at 3500m, this thermal-baths complex is the place to go for total relaxation. Rooms have the feel of a classic alpine lodge and while not huge they're comfortable. Outside there's a large thermal pool set among otherworldly páramo (high-mountain plain) plants. You'll need your own wheels to get here.
Up on a hillside above the complex there's a birding shelter beside a gushing stream where 17 species of hummingbird come to feed. There are also short trails to explore.
Meals are served in an elegant fire-heated dining room, with large windows offering fine views of the mountains and – on a clear day – down to Manizales. The baths are the only ones near Manizales built right at the source – you can see the sulfur-laced waters bubbling out of the mountainside right behind the hotel.
Day-trippers can use one of the pools for COP$30,000. Transportation from Manizales can be arranged for hotel guests for COP$40,000 per visitor one way.