This obscure and little-visited Nyingmapa-sect temple is dedicated to the central red-faced deity Tseumar, as well as Pehar (a protector linked to Samye) and Tamdrin (Hayagriva). The crates of báijiǔ (rice wine) stacked in the corner are there to refill the silver cup in Tseumar’s hand; apparently he’s in a better mood if constantly plastered. The entire chapel smells like a distillery.
The chapel is hidden in the backstreets west of the Shangbala Hotel and is hard to find; enter through the gateway marked by juniper and báijiǔ sellers.