China's oldest foreign-run hotel, the Astor dates back to 1863, when it was opened by British missionary John Innocent. Although it's not as luxurious as some of the city's international chains, there’s an undeniable character to the place that's hard to find elsewhere.
The new building has larger, more modern rooms with river views, but it's the old building you want with its creaking wooden floors, China's oldest lift (not still in use, though it is still operational) and four-poster beds in rooms with bags of character. Secreted away in the basement is the Astor House Museum (non-guests/guests ¥30/50; 11am to 8pm), which tells the story of the hotel and the city during the foreign concession era through old photos, maps and other artefacts.
