Tibetan/American couple Djarga and Angela run this superb ecolodge way out in the grasslands. There are only four cosy rooms (one of them can just about fit in a family of four) with wooden furnishings and picture-frame window views over a snowy mountainscape. There's a small dorm plus a sauna and hot tub that's bliss after a long walk.
Angela can advise on hiking routes and nomad homestays in the area, and rents tents and sleeping bags for ¥60. The breakfast spread is the best in Kham and they also do delicious meals (¥60 to 120).
From Tagong the lodge is a 15-minute taxi ride (¥60; mention Angela and most local drivers know where to go) or a three-hour hike. Contact the lodge for details on either.