Evenings used to be smoky on Yinhuchi Jie in the Hui district near the Great Southern Mosque, with hawkers fanning the flames of charcoal grills lining the street, roasting up all manner of shāokǎo (barbecue skewers). Sadly coal-fired barbecues have been banned – too polluting apparently (though cars seem to be OK!) – but small restaurants do the same job on indoor electric barbecues.
Tables spill out onto the pavements, so you can still eat your skewers on the street, and the food is still delicious. Not much English is spoken round here, but you can't go wrong if you just order some yángròu chuàn (羊肉串, lamb skewers) and a cold bottle of Tsingtao.