Two blocks east of the plaza, Chivato Negro has a bohemian, vintage vibe with a spacious patio hidden in back. There's a wide-ranging menu of sandwiches, pizzas and regional dishes (like grilled trout), plus a three-course menú del día for CH$5000. The cozy setting (with a roaring fire in the evening) invites lingering, whether over coffee or cocktails.
From December to March, there's occasional live music on weekends.