The fertile oasis of the Codpa Valley is home to the area's best place to overnight, Codpa Valley Lodge. This solar-energy-powered hideaway (there's electricity for only two hours nightly) has cozy rustic rooms with private patios set around a swimming pool, and a good restaurant. Bring plenty of pesos; it's cash only.
The lodge offers a variety of tours, including a scenic two-day overland to Putre through the precordillera, which includes a night in Putre, takes in Lauca and Surire the following day and returns to the lodge on the second night.