Dating from 1944, this tantalising market is housed in an eye-catching building that combines a Latin American feel with Moorish-style arches and patios. A lofty clock tower helps in locating the place – or just follow the shopping baskets; the mercado offers fresh, competitively priced produce, and is the top choice for locals, including restaurateurs. Stalls are spread over two bustling floors and interspersed with colourful flower sellers, kiosks selling churros and lush subtropical greenery.
It’s not large by Spanish standards (some 140 stalls) but it is still fascinating, with stalls selling mountains of fresh fruit and vegetables and a variety of fish. You can also buy picnic fare such as bread, local cheese, wine and cold cuts.
Save money by buying your gourmet deli items here, including jars of chilli-spiked mojo salsa, cactus marmalade, local honey, herbs and spices. On the main Patio Naciente, head for stalls such as Mi Mundo Gourmet, which sells and has tastings of cheese and jamón (ham) or Herboristeria Mil Variedades, which specialises in medicinal herbs for every imaginable ailment. Visit La Queseria del Mercado for all your cheesey needs, while if you want the French stuff, head to La Maison du Fromage.
Look for Canary Wine, where the charming and patient owner will guide you through the local wines, including eco-wines and the famous banana wine with the peeled-back price of just €8 a bottle. Another popular choice is viña norte, a Lambrusco-style rosé. Wine tastings take place during opening hours, but phone ahead if you're a group.
For a bite to eat, the very freshest morsels from the deep are on offer down at the restaurants attached to the fish market .