This old dame of a hotel, built in 1742, has a tall, covered central courtyard so full of lush verdant foliage, vines and sunlight that it’s like being lost in the Amazon. It's tempting to take a seat, reach for a book and stay put. Service, however, is rather reluctant and heel-dragging; extras include a heated pool, a sauna and three sun-bronzing terraces.
Original wooden balconies provide plenty of charm, while rooms are well equipped, though small and starting to look worn.