In Rhumsiki make a beeline for Vegetarian Carnivore, at the entrance to the village. Here you'll be met by friendly, English-speaking Kodji, who runs one of Cameroon's most innovative and charming restaurants. All the produce comes from Rhumsiki (much of it from the kitchen garden behind the outdoor eating area) and is prepared to order whenever guests come. The freshly made bread is the restaurant's calling card, and the Cameroonian vegetable pizza is superb. As its name suggests, both carnivores and vegetarians are well catered for, and if you're tired, you can even take a nap in one of the hammocks strung up in the garden, or take a room (CFA2500) for the night.