For back-to-basics living and serious relaxation this Cambodian-owned family place comes up trumps. Charismatic proprietor 'mama' cooks up mostly Khmer specialities in the river-terrace restaurant (meals from US$2). It's the spot to contemplate sunset while accommodation is in rustic palm-thatch bungalows (mattress on the floor, mosquito net and fan). Stilted bungalows have private bathroom. Book direct for the best rates.
You can also pitch your own tent for US$1.