Even as the competition kicks in, Terres Rouges remains one of the most atmospheric places to stay in provincial Cambodia. The standard rooms are small but classy, with beautiful Cambodian furniture, tribal artefacts and a long common verandah. The suites consist of spacious Balinese-style bungalows with open-plan bathrooms, set in the gorgeous garden.
If you're travelling with kids or looking for a little more comfort in Ban Lung, this option is a no-brainer. The restaurant has one of the most sophisticated menus in town.