Located just north of the small village of Chã da Igreja (heading towards the coast), this French-run charmer has four attractive rooms (the best with ocean views) and four well-appointed safari tents, all set amid abundant greenery and mountain views. There are great walks nearby, seasonal vegetable gardens (put to good use in Mimi's cooking) and plenty of tips on island exploring.
Dinner can also be arranged. The open-sided lounge beneath a thatch-roof is trimmed with greenery and provides a fine setting to plot the day's activities.