North of Chã da Igreja, the German-run Casa no Caminho consists of three attractive bungalows, all with fine views. The pleasant garden is strung with hammocks, and the friendly owners are a fount of knowledge about the region. Meals are available (breakfast for €5, dinner for €8).
Note that there are cold-water bathrooms only and no wi-fi – guests are encouraged to unplug and enjoy the island tranquillity.