The last lodging option up the valley from Vila das Pombas is Chez Sandro, a hostel-like guesthouse run by a Frenchman and his Cabo Verdean wife. It has computer use (for a fee), hot water in the mornings and free laundry after three days. Downstairs is a cosy bar-restaurant with 25 different kinds of local liqueur, homemade ice cream and good food (mains CVE560 to CVE800).
Look for the big red building that says 'Sandro'.