This lowlit Argentine-style parilla, run by a hands-on Brazilian family who keep the hospitality on overdrive (Jorge is especially personable, chatting with guests, sending comped glasses of wine), is the town's one can't miss. Though Argentine, the grillman, a former mechanic, is Brazilian-trained and his ojo de bife (ribeye) is a melt-in-your-mouth, perfectly seasoned prizewinner.
The cuts come in two sizes, Woman (300g) and Hungry (400g), along with seven sauces; and there are plenty of Argentine and Chilean reds by the glass.