It's worth the trek to the mainland for this fantastic boteco (bar) along the Via Gastrônomica in Coqueiros. Jazzed-up caipirinhas (R$21) – like bergamot with passion fruit or jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit) with basil – fuel the raging scene here in a revamped colonial house overlooking the waterfront. It's especially great when they have a feijoada (bean and meat stew) with samba (R$50).
It's eight minutes away on buses 664 'Itaguaçu ' or 665 'Abraão' (R$3.10) from TICEN platform B.