Run by a multilingual British economist turned bearded beachcomber, this relaxed guesthouse backs onto the river across the road from the beach and has spacious, tidy rooms with high ceilings upstairs; there's a great open-air restaurant with a varied menu (mains R$34 to R$75) on the ground floor. Order in advance for one of Rick's famous paellas.
There's no sign – look for the blue house on the left-hand side about 50m before the port.
Organizes trips around the area.