The most characterful restaurant for miles around, Calğalıq is packed with more antique handicrafts than the average museum and the enchanted garden is all a-croak with frogs. There are some Georgian options and very local seasonal specialities like maxara (sac-cooked savoury pancakes).
The location is utterly improbable: around 2.5km east of the flag roundabout/old bus station, take the Aşağı Tala turn-off and drive 4km south.