Chabiant Winery offers the most appealing visitor experience of Azerbaijan's new breed of vineyards, with a hotel, tastings and swifts swooping between the mulberry trees to skim the in-house swimming pool. Views across the rolling hilltop vines towards a backdrop of mountains are especially fine in spring when snow remains on the distant peaks.
Pre-booked tastings (per person AZN30, minimum six people) include snacks and a tour that takes in the impressively extensive if under-used arched cellars.
Or just drop in (after phoning ahead) and order wine by the glass from the bar: enter through the unsigned barrel-front door.
The unsigned winery hotel (d/tr/cottages AZN90/105/120) isn't overly fancy but rooms are large and comfortable; cottages have two big double rooms.
The road from the south (turning off the Ağsu–Göyçay road at Km72/208) makes for a magical drive, curling up through pretty agricultural hills, with a particularly lovely view as you arrive on the ridge above Mollaisaqlı. From İsmayıllı, drive via İvanovka. A taxi from İsmayıllı/Göyçay should cost AZN15/12.