Bushy, eccentric Red Poles is a great place to stay (and eat!). Aim for the rustic en-suite room (bigger than its two counterparts). Order some gnocchi with pesto and truffle salsa or other dishes (weekend breakfast mains $10 to $20, Wednesday to Sunday lunch $28 to $38), and check out some local artwork while you wait.
Live music Sunday afternoons, and beery tastings from Adelaide's Big Shed Brewing Co (www.bigshed.beer).