How to spend a perfect weekend in Porto

Conveniently compact, with delicious food and drink, beautiful scenery and architecture, and some excellent museums, Porto is the perfect weekend escape. 

I live in Lisbon, and at this point, I’ve probably visited Porto more than a dozen times, but crossing the Douro River via the Dom Luís I Bridge is always a thrill, and it would take me several lifetimes of weekends to taste every barrel of port wine that’s aging in the city. 

Simply put, I’m always happy to spend time in Portugal’s graceful northern city, and my frequent visits mean that I now have a go-to list of delicious things to eat and drink and places to see. 

• When to arrive: Try to arrive early on a Friday and stay until Monday morning – which is when many museums and other attractions are closed. 

• How to get from the airport: Porto’s metro runs from Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport to the city center. 

• Getting around town: The center of Porto is walkable by foot if challengingly hilly; metro and buses can carry you outside the city center.

• Where to stay: I love the old-world feel – and mega-convenient location – of Hotel Aliados. If I’m looking to save euros, I’ll stay at the even more old-school and admittedly less comfortable Hotel Peninsular, a short walk away.

• What to pack: Porto is a rainy city, so come prepared with a light rainproof jacket and hat, and shoes appropriate for hilly, slippery walking.

Friday  

Morning

Ditch your bag at the hotel and beeline to Padaria Ribeiro for a quick baked snack and a coffee.

How to spend the day

The top level of Ponte Luís I, Porto’s iconic Gustave Eiffel-designed bridge, is dedicated to pedestrians (and the metro) and offers amazing views of the city you’re about to explore – it’s a must-visit. Descend from the bridge and wind through Ribeira, Porto’s ancient riverfront district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Peruse Casa do Infante, museum and alleged birthplace of the Infante Dom Henrique, also known as Prince Henry the Navigator, the monarch during the dawn of Portugal’s maritime expansion.

Enter the humming Praça da Ribeira, an ancient square and former trade center. Spot the Torre da Rua de Baixo, a five-story structure thought to go back to the 8th century, making it one of the city’s oldest; note the flood markers recording the Douro River's major flooding events.

Book in advance for lunch at Adega São Nicolau, where you can try one of Porto’s signature dishes, arroz de polvo (octopus rice) ideally paired with a crisp white and if you’re lucky enough to score a seat outside, views of the Douro River. After lunch, head uphill and pick up a unique souvenir at Escovaria de Belomonte, a hardware store stuffed with charmingly old-school domestic items ranging from fragrant soaps to wooden toys. 

Dinner

After resting those legs, cross the Ponte Luís I again to Vila Nova de Gaia. It’s here that you’ll find the various port wine houses that Porto is famous for. Organize a tour and tasting in advance; Poças is the only entirely Portuguese-owned house and feels distinctly off the beaten track, while Taylor’s offers the most contemporary experience. Cross back to Porto for dinner at Oficina dos Rissóis, a cozy restaurant specializing in rissoles, Porto’s beloved deep-fried, meat-stuffed pastries. 

Saturday

Morning

Start the day with toast and a galão (Portugal’s take on the latté) at the charmingly stuck-in-time A Pérola do Bolhão. Consider a brief pop-in at Mercado do Bolhão, Porto’s central market that’s just next door, although it must be said that it lost most of its charm during a recent and extensive renovation.

How to spend the day

Set off on a half-day trip to Porto’s sister city, Matosinhos. Take the metro north and stop in at Pinhais, a century-old cannery that’s one of the country’s best. Book a visit to the factory floor or stop at the pleasant cafe for a taste of sardines or mackerel in spicy olive oil paired with a glass of vinho verde, “green wine.” Matosinhos, a port city, is known for its seafood, so follow the trail of smoke to the knot of grilled fish restaurants at the northern end of Avenida Serpa Pinto; O Felipe has a solid reputation. Burn off lunch via a walk south along the coast, passing handsome urban beaches until you reach Foz do Douro. From here, it’s easy to catch a bus back to the city center. 

Dinner

Pair browsing secondhand books and sipping a glass of natural wine at Candelabro. Lunch was sensible, so now it’s time to indulge. In Porto, this means the francesinha, the city’s over-the-top sandwich that combines steak, sausages, ham, melted cheese, a fried egg and a spicy sauce, often served with a pile of French fries (you’ve been warned). The dish was allegedly invented at A Regaleira, while Santiago remains a go-to for many locals, and Francesinha Cafe serves what is arguably the city’s most refined version. 

After dark

Close with boundary-pushing cocktails (sample name: Peanut Macumba) at Torto. 

Sunday

Morning

Start the day with a cortado and cardamom roll at Combi Coffee Roasters. Stroll through the adjacent Jardim Marques de Oliveira and the neighboring and graceful Bonfim neighborhood. Reach out in advance to visit the showroom of GUR, an outfit that makes quirky rugs from recycled materials.

How to spend the day

Sunday is, naturally, a day for culture. Climb the Torre de Clérigos, a 75-meter tower built in the 18th century, for stunning views over the city. Head next door to the Portuguese Centre of Photography, an excellent (and free) museum located in a former prison. If you’re serious about art, hop on a bus or taxi to Parque de Serralves, an expansive park and contemporary art museum with enough to keep you busy for hours. On Sundays, the vast majority of Porto’s eateries are closed, but fortunately, Stramuntana Gaia, an excellent restaurant that specializes in the hearty dishes of the country’s north, keeps its doors open for lunch – book ahead.

After dark

Kick off the night with a glass of red from the Douro region at Prova, one of the city’s best wine bars. It’s entirely understandable if you’re still full from lunch; instead proceed directly to dessert at Semea, who do an avant-garde version of rabanadas, Porto’s beloved take on French toast.