The best things to do on a Sunday in Paris

Paris might be one of Europe’s most dynamic cities, but the pace of life is noticeably quieter on Sundays, particularly in more residential neighborhoods such as parts of the 9th, 11th and 12th arrondissements. On a Sunday in Paris, you may find that smaller independent shops are closed, a restaurant you wanted to try isn’t open, and the local supermarket shuts early.

The upside of this Sunday slowdown is that Parisians generally run their errands on Saturday and use Sunday for leisure time instead, whether that's catching up with friends or going to a current cultural exhibition.

If you're going to be in Paris on a Sunday, read on for how locals like to spend the day, with tips on where you can shop, eat out, and even catch a film. Or maybe you just want to soak up the city of light at its most relaxed....

A fresh food market with stalls lining a street and shoppers browsing — Sunday morning at Marché d'Aligre. Amir Hamja for Lonely Planet

Morning

Markets: Sunday mornings are market mornings, when you’ll see Parisians picking up groceries or ingredients for a home-cooked Sunday lunch. Even if you’re not cooking, places like Marché Bastille, which is one of the biggest food markets in Paris, or Marché d'Aligre are just great places to browse, soak up the atmosphere and pick up mid-morning snacks. There are also a few cafes around Marché d'Aligre for people-watching from the sidelines.

Pro tip: If you want to shop without the crowds, get there when the markets start at 7:30am. If you’re just there for the atmosphere, there’s no need to rush – the markets will be in full flow for most of the morning and over lunchtime, until they start winding down around 2pm.

Brunch: Although not traditionally French, brunch has become a huge weekend trend in Paris. Some great breakfast spots – alas, some are not open on Sundays – include Café Méricourt, Mokonuts and new sister address Mokochaya, Coutume and Café Singuliers. Cocktail bar Dirty Lemon serves up a Palestinian brunch on weekends.

If you just want coffee and pastries for petit dej, as the French sometimes call it, pop by the fantastic sourdough bakery Ten Belles (it has three locations in the 6th, 10th and 11th), KB Coffee Roasters, with a great terrace for summer, or the Dancing Goat (possibly one of the prettiest coffee shops in Paris). For gluten-free options, head to the excellent Chambelland, which, after opening in the 11th, now has spots in the 16th and 17th arrondissements.

A market stall loaded with furniture and paintings — Les Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen secondhand market. Amir Hamja for Lonely Planet

Brocante: If you’re into antiquing or rummaging for a vintage treasure, look out for a weekend brocante (secondhand market) or vide-grenier. A vide-grenier, which literally means “empty attic,” is a market with people selling off their own stuff, while a brocante features professional dealers of antiques, silverware and French linens. While the famous Les Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen is an option, local brocantes tend to be less overwhelming and more affordable.

Brocantes pop up on Saturdays and Sundays year-round (except August) in different parts of the city. Dealers set up early and pack up around 5pm or 6pm, when you might score a better deal if they're keen to make one last sale.

Pro tip: The Paris website has a list of when and where the vide greniers and brocantes are happening around the city. The websites Brocabrac, francebrocante.fr and vide-grenier.org also include markets and puces (flea markets) on their lists.

People sit on chairs on a terrace in the sun outside a bistro — Join Parisians for lunch or a drink on a terrace. Amir Hamja for Lonely Planet

Afternoon

On a sunny day: If you haven’t brunched already, then pick a spot for lunch or more coffee. In summer, most Parisians will be competing for a spot on a terrace, or hanging out in parks or by the Seine to make the most of the good weather. Parc des Buttes Chaumont is a popular park in the 19th for picnics, the square in the beautiful Place des Vosges is packed with Parisians on a sunny day, or just stroll by the Seine, where you can stop off at one of the bars alongside the river.

On a rainy day: Probably the best rainy day Sunday activity is a museum or gallery (although they work in summer too, especially if you’re in search of elusive air-con). If you’ve done the big hitters such as the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay and so on, then smaller, less-crowded museums such as the Musée National Gustave Moreau, the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, the Musée Marmottan Monet, or the photography museums Jeu de Paume and the Maison Européenne de la Photographie can feel more relaxed on a Sunday.

Pro tip: Bear in mind that many museums are free on the first Sunday of the month, so there will likely be a queue to get in; it’s best to reserve tickets if the museum gives you the option. Museums usually close at 6pm on a Sunday, with the last entry usually around an hour before closing.

Street scene on the Rue des Rosiers, which means "street of the rosebushes," Paris, France. — Street scene on the Rue des Rosiers. Adrienne Pitts for Lonely Planet

Evening

Dinner: Many restaurants are closed on Sundays, which might sound surprising for a city that loves its food so much, but Parisians value time off as much as a good meal.

Some great places for dinner that are open include neo bistros Jones, Café du Coin, and Soces; and classic bistros Les Philosophes and Aux Bons Crus. For more affordable French food, hit up Bouillon Pigalle and its sister Bouillon République, or Breizh Café, with restaurants around the city serving classic galettes (savory buckwheat crêpes from Brittany).

Hip new pizza spots Oobatz (reserve in advance) and Rori are also open on Sundays, as are the seafood-driven Clamato and Le Mary Celeste, and Les Enfants Du Marché, a lively spot serving gastronomic-level food inside Paris’ oldest market. If you’re looking for a treat, then splash out on oysters at the famed Huitrerie Régis, which probably has the best in the city.

Cinema and theater: The cinema is a leisurely Sunday evening activity in most cities, but with film such a big part of French culture, in Paris, you’ve got a great range of cinemas to choose from, from the historic Le Champo in the 5th, which goes through different “cycles” of films that focus on one director, to big name chains such as MK2. Check AlloCiné for listings, looking for VO (original version) or VF (French-dubbed) for English-language films. Lost in Frenchlation features French films with English subtitles, while at Theatre in Paris, you can book a show with surtitles (captions above the stage).

People relax by a river with a large stone bridge crossing it — Locals relaxing along the Seine. Amir Hamja for Lonely Planet

Walk along the Seine: And if you haven’t strolled by the Seine yet, then an evening walk along the quai is a good way to end the week, and a trip to Paris. It might sound clichéd, but you’ll find plenty of sun-starved Parisians doing it too in summer to make the most of the longer evenings, and it feels pretty romantic all year round.

Getting home on Sundays: The Paris metro runs until 1:15am every night, and buses run until around 00:45am depending on the line (fewer lines run on a Sunday). If you stay out later, Uber and Bolt are popular apps for getting a taxi home, and if you’re in central Paris or a lively neighbourhood, you can usually get a car in a few minutes.