
How to explore Sicily on a budget (and still see the sights)
The scenic seafront at Cefalù in Sicily. leonori/Shutterstock
The largest of Italy's islands, Sicily is expensive compared to some other summer hotspots around the Mediterranean – or at least it can be, though there are plenty of ways to reduce costs and still get the best from this island of sandy beaches, ancient temples, historic townships, fabulous food and volcanic vistas.
For holidaymakers from Italy, Sicily is a prime destination for summer sun, so when the mercury rises, so do airfares – but that doesn't mean you have to spend a fortune to enjoy the Italian island idyll. Saving on air travel by booking your trip in the off-season is one obvious tip, but it's quite easy to plan a money-conscious itinerary year-round.
Unlike other premium-priced destinations in Italy, such as the Amalfi Coast or Lake Como, Sicily has the advantages of size and variety. It's easy to find inexpensive meals, off-the-beaten-path accommodation and even affordable public transportation to get around without racking up a big bill at the gas pump.
Whatever you plan to see and do in Sicily, the low season, between November and April, is the cheapest time to visit, while the shoulder seasons, in spring (April and May) and early fall (September and October), see the perfect balance of smaller crowds, good weather and more moderate prices.
However, with these smart tips for spending less on food, accommodation and sightseeing, you can put together a thrifty island itinerary at any time of year. Here's how to get the best from a trip to Sicily on a budget.
Daily costs in Sicily
Prices for a trip to Sicily can vary widely, depending on how you choose to travel. Package holiday deals can be very affordable, but you'll miss out on a lot of what Sicily has to offer if you restrict yourself to the hotel pool and buffet. Traveling independently, you can expect to spend around €150 per day, staying in mid-range hotels and mixing up mealtimes between restaurants, street food vendors and snacking in markets.
Here are some common costs to consider.
Hostel room: €30-50
Mid-range hotel room for two: €70-180
Self-catering apartment: €90-200
Public transportation from Catania airport to town: €2-7
A cup of espresso in Palermo's Morettino Coffee Lab: from €2
A cannolo pastry from Catania's I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza: from €3
Lunchtime margarita pizza: €6-10
A glass of restaurant house wine: €3-5
Seafood dinner for two at Marettimo's Trattoria Il Veliero: €40-60
Save by comparing flight prices between Sicily's airports
Unless you are coming from Europe, you will be hard-pressed to find direct flights to Sicily, so if you're arriving from further afield, you'll most likely have to connect through a major Italian hub like Rome or Milan. Before you make your plans, it's worth comparing the price difference in flights to Catania and Palermo, as this can be significant.
Generally, flights to Catania tend to be cheaper, especially in the summer, since more of the best beaches in Sicily are found near Palermo. Either city is a fantastic starting point for a trip to Sicily, and the best way to experience a wide swath of the island is to arrive in one and depart from the other.
Travelers visiting from other parts of Europe are in luck; both cities are served by budget airlines such as Ryanair and Easyjet, with some good deals if you travel light and book ahead. Long-haul visitors may be able to save by buying a flight to Rome or Milan and changing to a budget airline, though you'll need to check in separately for the two flights.
Consider getting to Sicily by train
If you are including a visit to Sicily as part of a larger Italy itinerary, look into taking the train instead of flying. Not only is this more sustainable, it's also a unique travel experience. In order to cross the Strait of Messina, which has been famously difficult to construct a bridge across, train cars roll onto a ferry, before rolling back onto the rails on the far side.
Tickets for the 11-hour Rome-to-Palermo journey can cost as little as €29 one-way if you book well in advance, though fares are often higher. Flying can sometimes be cheaper than the train, so it's worth comparing options before you book.
Take advantage of public transportation
The cost of renting a car and buying gas can push up the price of your trip significantly, and you take the risk of running into the dreaded Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL) fines if you don't strictly follow the driving rules in Sicily's historic towns. However, buses and trains are a great way to get around if you want to save money.
Traveling along the main train lines is an easy way to hop between major towns along the coast, such as Palermo, Catania, Syracuse or Taormina, and fares on Trenitalia are very reasonable. However, the trains won't get you everywhere, particularly if you want to explore the interior of the island.
Many places in Sicily, particularly the small interior villages and even some remote beach towns, can be difficult to reach by public transportation – but it's not impossible. Buses connect many towns and villages; you can find schedules online, but often the best way to get the most accurate information is to go to the bus station and ask around.
Find budget accommodation outside major city centers
If you do rent a car, you can balance your budget by booking accommodation outside the center of the cities you visit. In outlying suburbs and small towns and villages between the main hubs, you can find apartment rentals and hotels charging much lower prices than you'll find in central Palermo or Catania, and the countryside is dotted with reasonably priced agriturismi (farmstays).
You can also look into staying at a monastery or convent; rooms in many religious institutions are rented out on the cheap, sometimes in very desirable locations. For example, in the dreamy beachside village of Cefalù, the Collegio di Maria di Cefalù offers modest but comfortable sea-view rooms starting at €45 per night.
Consider camping in Sicily
In the warmer months, camping can be a great way to save on accommodation, with appealing camping grounds dotted all over the island, including close to great beaches, near the ancient temples at Agrigento and even on the lower slopes of Mt Etna.
With a tent and a hire car, it's possible to circle the island and still save money compared to staying in hotels and taking public transport. Most campgrounds offer low-priced tent sites and more expensive spaces for caravans and motorhomes, but it's wise to book ahead in summer.
Enjoy the street food all over Sicily
There's no shortage of good places to eat in Sicily, and some of the local specialties, like grilled swordfish and the best island wines, are well worth a splurge once in a while. However, if you want to save money, it's beyond easy to fill up on affordable street food like arancini – fried, stuffed rice balls – from streetside vendors all over Sicily. A portable feast can cost a fraction of the price of a sit-down meal, and be just as delicious.
In Palermo, you can find plenty of cheap eats at local markets such as La Vucciria or the Mercato di Ballarò, as well as fresh fruit and salad vegetables that you can combine with bread from local bakeries and deli ingredients like cheeses and salami to make an inexpensive picnic. In Catania, you can visit the fish market, La Pescheria, which is surrounded by good seafood restaurants and small vendors showcasing the classic street foods of the city.
Also consider your drinks budget – if you love wine, you can enjoy quality wines for less by buying from local shops. When ordering the inexpensive house wine in restaurants, wines sold by the bottle or half-bottle tend to be better than those available by the carafe.
Local tip: If you order Sicily's tasty rice balls in Palermo, be sure to ask for an arancina (feminine); in eastern Sicily, it's arancino (masculine) – the east and west coasts of Sicily maintain a friendly rivalry over the pronunciation of this beloved snack.
Get out into nature for free (or a modest entry fee)
You could easily spend every day of your trip hopping in and out of Sicily's many museums and archaeological sites, but ticket costs will most certainly add up. Thankfully, many of Sicily's natural attractions are free to enjoy, or at least accessible with only a small entry fee, including pristine reserves that are great for hiking.
Consider a trip to the appealing Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro, west of Palermo, where a small admission charge gets you access to a 7km-long trail along a stunning stretch of coastline with many scenic swimming spots. If you have transport, there's no fee to enter Parco dell'Etna; parking isn't expensive, and you can walk without a guide on the lower slopes around Rifugio Sapienza, including to the Silvestri craters from the 1896 eruption.
There are many other environmentally diverse areas to explore; the Riserva di Vendicari near Noto is flush with flamingos, while the Bosco Della Ficuzza forest near Corleone was once the favorite hunting ground of King Ferdinand in the 18th century.
Bring your own beach kit
In most beach hubs, except for some remote beaches off the beaten track, you can expect to find a lido, or beach club, catering to the daily stream of sunbathers. In addition to selling food, these fixtures of the beach scene also rent out beach chairs and sun umbrellas, which are immaculately set up in rows each morning.
Lidos typically charge the same price for the whole day, so the entrance fee – which usually includes access to a chair and umbrella – can be quite good value if you arrive early and plan to stay the whole day. If you're short on time, or want to avoid fees, look out for free-to-access areas of sand, or pick remote beaches, and bring your own towel and umbrella.
You can save quite a bit of money if you carry your own towel and beach umbrella, and even more if you think ahead and also pack a picnic for lunch. If you'll be on the same beach for a few days, or plan to go beach hopping around the coast, an umbrella is a worthy investment and they're available at low prices from local shops.
Local tip: Snorkelers should bear in mind that rental shops are few and far between, so if you want to make the most of the island's crystal-clear waters, bring your own.
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