Copy My Trip: a Phu Quoc beach escape

Lonely Planet destination editor, James Pham, recently traveled to Phu Quoc, an island off Vietnam’s southern coast. Here, he shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.

Looking to escape the scorching Saigon heat, I booked a one-hour flight to the island of Phu Quoc. Located in the Gulf of Thailand, Vietnam’s largest island has really taken off as a premier beach destination in the last decade or so, thanks to its 150km (93 miles) of coastline, visa waiver for all nationalities and a plethora of tourist attractions.

Where did you stay? What was the vibe?

While most of the hotels are around the main town of Duong Dong, I wanted to stay on the southern tip of the island, a jumping-off point to the smaller islands. I also wanted to check out the newly developed Sunset Town, intriguingly inspired by Italy's Amalfi Coast. Having vacationed on the actual Amalfi Coast just a few months prior, I have to admit that I wanted to hate the concept (c’mon, a slice of Italy reproduced in tropical Vietnam?) but I found myself super surprised at the authentic vibe. It was easy to suspend belief walking along the cobblestone streets amongst pastel-colored houses with their terracotta tile roofs and blooming bougainvillea.

I spent a few days at La Festa Phu Quoc, Southeast Asia’s first addition to the Curio Collection by Hilton. Taking a page straight from the Med, the property was nothing short of surreal with its soaring clock tower, arched ceilings and sparkling infinity pool overlooking the ocean below. I also loved that there were so many entertainment options nearby, including the cable car to Hon Thom Island as well as the harbor where boats departed for island-hopping tours.

Leaving pseudo-Europe behind, I traded in one surreal experience for another at the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa. Designed by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley, the design-forward resort has its own unique origin story – a fictional 19th-century university where each building is themed after a different academic department (think a lobby with vintage bookcases modeled after a dean’s library, and a bar with a chemistry lab vibe, all wrapped in art deco aesthetics). It’s nirvana for design aficionados (and the Insta-crowd), a visual feast literally everywhere you look. But equally stunning is its location, tucked on the very end of Kem Beach, widely considered the island’s most beautiful, with powdery fine sand, swaying palms and crystalline water.

Favorite activity from the trip?

While I’d been on snorkeling trips to a few of Phu Quoc’s nearly two dozen islands, I’d yet to take the cable car over to Hon Thom (Pineapple Island). Recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s longest non-stop three-rope cable car, the nearly 8km (5-mile) trip offers spectacular views, passing over fleets of fishing boats, forested islands and a beautiful expanse of electric blue water.

At the end of the nearly 20-minute scenic ride is Sun World Hon Thom, an amusement park with 20 water slides, a heart-pounding wooden roller coaster, beach area, observation deck and more. I was also excited to try another new experience: sea walking amidst the colorful coral and schools of fish in the waters that are part of a UNESCO-listed biosphere reserve. Best of all, a family-friendly day here is super affordable at just 1,000,000d ($39) for adults and $26 for kids for the cable car ride, park entrance and buffet lunch.

What is the one thing that you did not expect?

I wasn’t expecting to have so many options for things to do at night. In the past, going out meant an expensive taxi ride to the main town. But right in Sunset Town, there was a daily Jet Ski and flyboard show as well as free water puppet shows by the beach.

Something else that floored me was the world-class production values of Kiss of the Sea, a wonderfully bizarre multisensory spectacle that’s a mix of dazzling pyrotechnics, Cirque du Soleil–style acrobatics, and sound and lights projected against curtains of falling water in a futuristic venue right over the sea. The show concluded with a thrilling fireworks display (also viewable from the town), after which we made our way over to the lively night market with its budget-friendly street food stalls and free street art performances.

What was the best thing you ate?

While Phu Quoc has fresh seafood and produces world-class fish sauce and peppercorns, my most memorable meal was actually French fine dining at Pink Pearl. Continuing the theme of incongruity, I wasn’t expecting one of the best meals I’ve ever enjoyed, including Japanese wagyu and French scallops, to be served on this small tropical island. The artfully presented food was enhanced by the everything-pink setting, from servers in sequined flapper dresses to the mad-genius decor (think a shell-encrusted flamingo, an odd-looking penguin, a stuffed peacock and a larger-than-life white owl – things that definitely shouldn’t work together but somehow do), all under a soaring ceiling and accompanied by a pianist and violinist.

What are some of your best tips for someone who wants to plan the same trip?

If this is your first time to Phu Quoc, think about splitting your time between the main town of Duong Dong with its fun night market and vibrant restaurant scene and the postcard-pretty beaches to the south including Kem Beach and neighboring Sao Beach (popular with day trippers on island tours). That way, you’ll get a taste of local island life as well as a more relaxed beach-centric getaway. For a more wallet-friendly trip, check out some of the mini hotels in Sunset Town or look for deals that bundle accommodations together with activities like Kiss of the Sea and a day out on Hon Thom Island.

James Pham traveled to Phu Quoc on the invitation of Sun Group. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.