Local Flavor: where to eat and drink in Madrid

Madrid’s culinary landscape has evolved so much over recent times. Twenty years ago, when I moved to the Spanish capital, dining in indoor mercados (markets) was non-existent, the concept of “brunch” was unfamiliar and Asian restaurants were scarce.

Today, thanks to a growing cosmopolitan community, diverse cultural influences and a new generation of creative Spanish chefs, Madrid’s food scene has surged with exciting innovations. From traditional tapas venues to market hot spots and Michelin-starred restaurants, Madrid has created a gastronomic space blending tradition with innovation, making it one of the world’s best destinations to indulge your cravings.

Here are some of my favorite dining spots and food recommendations.

Breakfast

My go-to Spanish breakfast is a simple classic I’ll never tire of: pan con tomate (toasted bread with tomato pulp, drizzled with olive oil and a pinch of salt). You can order this in any of the ubiquitous cafeterías open early in the morning. My neighborhood favorite is El Ducado, where I stop every morning for my caffeine fix.

Weekend brunch has exploded in popularity in Madrid. Carmencita was the brunch pioneer in the Conde Duque area, with exceptional classic plates like eggs benedict and huevos rancheros (fried tortillas, refried beans, fried eggs, and salsa), plus great coffee and mimosas.

When I’m with friends, I love going to Federal Café in Plaza del Conde de Barajas to soak in the vibrant atmosphere in Madrid’s historic old town and order its perfect scrambled eggs with toast, bacon and avocado.

La Desayunería in the Chueca neighborhood has the best all-day American breakfasts in town. Its origin story traces to a backpacking trip taken by co-founders Paula and Laura, who collected breakfast recipes across the US. Its extensive menu has a lot of goodies to choose from, but I always go for its chicken and waffles and Manchito’s Breakfast, which is essentially fried eggs and cheese with pancakes and French toast.

Coffee

Specialty coffee culture has flourished across Madrid in recent years, revolutionizing the traditional Spanish coffee scene rooted in the torrefacto process. This method involves coating coffee beans with sugar before roasting, serving as an economical way to prolong the beans' shelf life. Today, specialty coffee shops offer a diverse array of options, using premium, ethically sourced beans meticulously roasted and brewed by skilled baristas.

Bona Specialty Coffee is a compact, cozy nook in the La Latina neighborhood, located beside a restored ancient 12th-century wall along Calle Almendro. Pair a cup of good coffee with medialunas (the Argentine version of croissants). Also in La Latina, Slow Café Madrid is a half-hidden outpost near the majestic Basilica de San Francisco El Grande, where you can sit on mismatched furniture and enjoy hot and cold brews with homebaked goods or work with a laptop in a dedicated corner for digital nomads.

For coffee enthusiasts seeking a deeper dive into the world of coffee, La Colonia de Ultramar in Barrio Salamanca is the ideal destination. This coffee shop and mini cafe offers a selection of coffee beans sold by weight, alongside a variety of brewing equipment for home brewing enthusiasts to explore and enjoy.

Lunch

One of my long-time favorites, Kitchen 154, initially gained popularity as a humble food truck at MadrEAT festivals, drawing endless queues for its spicy Korean tacos. It subsequently established a stall in Mercado Vallehermoso, as well as two additional locations in the city center, all of which remain popular. The team at Kitchen 154, led by Txitxo, Alex, and José Miguel, has defied the Spanish aversion to spiciness, crafting standout dishes inspired by their travels to Southeast Asia. I highly recommend the slow-cooked pork ribs with homemade kimchi and curries, which go perfectly with a cold beer or a vermút (fortified red wine served in ice and a citrus slice, a madrileño favorite).

Speaking of mercados, these indoor food labyrinths are some of the most thrilling (and good value) places to eat in Madrid. Through innovative use of space, these once-neglected areas, unable to compete with supermarket chains in the '90s, have been revitalized and now house diverse global eateries, bars, and even full-fledged restaurants. My top picks in the city include Mercado de Anton Martin for Yokaloka sushi, the market’s pioneering stall, and Mercado de Maravillas in Tetuan for L’Affineur de Fromage, a haven of French cheeses featuring the finest salted butter sold by weight.

Aperitivo

Madrid's seasons are categorized into invierno (winter) and infierno (fire), determining factors on where to congregate for aperitivo (aperitif).

During the colder seasons, I tend to cozy up indoors in Plaza Menor, an intimate cocktail bar located within one of Madrid's stone caves near the city's ancient walls. Embracing Madrid's historical connection to its past as a Moorish citadel, this stylish two-story establishment is adorned with Arabic motifs and decorative tilework. This is a beautiful space to enjoy a good glass of Ribera del Duero red wine or cocktails.

In the scorching summer months, when most locals escape to Spain's coastlines or seek cooler retreats in the north, there's a hidden gem that brings a beach vibe to Madrid — Terraza Atenas. Situated at the base of the Almudena Cathedral within the verdant Atenas Park, this oasis offers cocktails, empanadas, chill house music, and even mini pools to dip your feet in, creating a unique beach-like experience in a city that is landlocked and has no beach.

Dinner

My favorite dinner place in Madrid is Casa Benigna, tucked away in a tranquil and nondescript street in Barrio Prosperidad. This wonderful spot is owned by a Valencian family spanning three generations, renowned for revolutionizing paella with a patented "la patella" pan and exploring various rice styles. Drawing inspiration from Italy, Norberto, one of the owners, spent time in Modena sourcing balsamic vinegar and trained as an olive oil sommelier in Imperia, resulting in exceptional condiments used throughout the restaurant. While Casa Benigna was once a well-kept insider secret, its popularity has surged (partly due to social media), and you'll need to book at least a month in advance.

A new dining spot that I love is Trèsde on Cava Alta in La Latina, recently recognized by Michelin. It has a delectable seasonal menu, with ingredients sourced from certified sustainable producers. Definitely go for the wine pairing with the full menu, where each dish is expertly coupled with fantastic wines from local bodegas.

Bar

As I’m more of a barfly than a night owl, I prefer cozy, homey spots to enjoy drinks over relaxed conversations with friends rather than all-night clubbing. Rollo Ocho is a second home to me, I can linger here from early evening enjoying tapas, the continental menu, and wines and cocktails. It has a wide and welcoming terraza at the top of a cobblestone staircase facing the Segovia bridge, which transforms into a magical setting at night.

For something different, Toni 2 is a legendary piano bar just off Paseo Recoletos that invites you to sing along (or even take your turn at the piano!) with an inebriated, joyful crowd until the sun comes up.