Where to ski in Vermont this winter

They say if you can ski out East, you can ski anywhere; and Vermont has a reputation for being icy. Still, those in the know love the Green Mountain State for its legendary powder days (it’s not just Colorado and Utah getting dumped on every winter), daredevil verticals, and chill, laid-back vibes.

One thing you won’t find out here is pretension. Skiers and snowboarders come to play and party, sometimes in equal measure, though there’s plenty of family fun to be had too. And even when Mother Nature isn’t blessing Vermont’s slopes with feet of fresh snow, everyone’s just happy to be taking the cold ride up to the top. Chances are, snowmaking is in full effect too, so even if the snow gods aren’t at the top of their game, you can bet fresh tracks are just around the bend.

Mount Snow

Vibes: Mount Snow is a reasonable drive from Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts and New Hampshire, so it sees its fair share of weekend crowds. Everyone’s here to maximize time on the mountain and not do much else, though there are a handful of hearty eateries along Route 100 and a little further afield in Wilmington, VT. 

Who’s it for: There’s plenty for beginners to enjoy on Mount Snow, and the ski school is always bustling on Saturday mornings, but experts won’t have to look far to access the mountain’s challenging terrain on North Face.

What to eat: A newcomer in town, Black Ember Grill currently serves the area’s tastiest food. Start with the Texas Twinkies (bacon-wrapped, stuffed jalapeno poppers) but save room for one of the signature smoker trays like the wood-fired brisket (juicy cut, natch) with buttery cornbread, pickles and a choice of sides. 

Where to après: Dover Bar and Grill (referred to as the D-bag by locals and regulars) is a dive with a pleasing smashburger. The game (this is a New England crowd, don’t forget) is always on, but the bar hosts karaoke nights, too.

Where to stay: In the years since joining Vail Resorts, the Dover area has seen an uptick in new accommodation options. We like Chalet 239, a cute boutique hotel with a welcoming common area and thoughtfully appointed rooms.

Where to rent equipment: Equipe Sport is the go-to spot for all your ski and snowboard needs. And the apparel options aren’t too shabby either. 

Pass and tickets: Mount Snow is a part of the Epic pass, which delivers a decent bang for the buck, depending on how often you ski. Day passes for $110 are also available.

Getting there and around: The free shuttle, the Moover, picks up along Route 100 and drops off at the mountain, but you’ll want a car to access the region as there is no train station in town, and ride shares are few and far between.

Killington

Vibes: Known as The Beast of the East, Killington, located in Rutland County, is Vermont’s largest ski resort. Its recent sale to a group of local investors who’ve pledged to reinvest 100% of profits into improving the skier experience is excellent news for powder hounds. You’re likely to encounter good energy at this massive mountain. With a nearby town that’s lively but not raging, the focus is on hitting the slopes.

Who’s it for: Killington has something for everyone from the strictly-blues skiing contingent to the freestyling snowboarders who flock to The Stash for in-the-trees adventure. 

What to eat:  Refuel with loaded nachos and a smashburger at The Rivershed Grill, a popular spot in town that also takes its Sunday brunch seriously. 

Where to après: If you love a good dive (who doesn’t?), The Lookout Tavern is the place to be after the last downhill. The U-shaped bar is good for groups – and noshing on some hot wings. Off of Northbrook trail there's a yurt that also serves lunch and snacks. It isn't open every day, though, so swing by on a midday run and if the lights are on, pop in! 

Where to stay: Every room is different at the freshly renovated Snowed Inn, but all stays include a hot, home-cooked breakfast, hot tub access (reservation system in effect) and ski storage.  

Where to rent equipment: Mom-and-pop shop First Stop Board Barn will deliver your gear to your hotel or Airbnb for a little extra. 

Pass and tickets: Ikon pass members who plan to ski multiple days will fare best as day passes start at $110 when purchased in advance online. 

Getting there and around: If you're flying into Burlington, your best bet is to rent a car and then make the 90-minute drive to the mountain. Alternatively, Rutland Airport (just 30 minutes away) has three daily flights from Boston, and via Amtrak you can ride directly to Killington. That trip, though, includes a shuttle from the station in Rutland.

Stowe

Vibes: Charming and European-like, Stowe may well be Vermont’s top ski destination for international visitors, though it’s popular among U.S. residents too. 

Who’s it for: Skiers looking to improve their turns, riders who live for the shred and everyone in between. Stowe also has plenty to entice the non-skier; art galleries, artisanal boutiques, and a walkable, picturesque town center set this Vermont ski resort apart from its peers.

What to eat: After a day crushing Vermont’s highest peak, you’ll have more than earned the VT cheddar fries at Doc Ponds. Wash ‘em down with a draft beer or cider (majority from Vermont) and follow the starter with the half chicken or falafel plate.

Where to après: This is the home of The Alchemist, maker of the legendary IPA Heady Topper, which comes hand-pulled at the Beer Cafe (craft cans are also available to drink there or grab and go). A food truck or two is usually parked outside for when you’re feeling peckish. Lot Six Brewing is a new spot in nearby Jeffersonville. It's worth a pit stop (open Wednesday to Sunday) and is run in part by the former director of brewing operations at beloved Zero Gravity. 

Where to stay: The Lodge at Spruce Peak, a Hyatt property, is the priciest place to stay in town, thanks to its convenient ski-in/ski-out access, but it is the place to stay if you’re seeking luxurious digs with the ski village at your doorstep.

Where to rent equipment: Stowe's own ski shop selection of rentals is impressive and knowledgeable staff will ensure you get fitted with exactly what you need based on your skill level. If you fly into Burlington, stop along the way to Stowe at Ski and Snowboard Express in Richmond. They'll hook you up with all you need for your time on the snow, and you'll avoid the early morning on-mountain crowds. 

Pass and tickets: Epic passholders get unlimited ski days at Stowe, and single day lift tickets start at $110.

Getting there and around: Fly into Burlington and rent a car to make the roughly 60-minute drive to Stowe. Take advantage of the free shuttle to access the mountain or get to the mountain early for a decent parking spot near the gondola.

How to pack

Vermont gets cold. Very, very cold, but hey, all the better for making snow when it’s not coming down naturally. You’ll want to pack your warmest layers and don’t forget the hand and toe warmers. Après ski is generally super casual; cozy wool sweaters and beanies paired with jeans and winter boots are standard attire.

How to budget

Like most of the country’s ski regions, day passes in Vermont cost a pretty penny. Buy in advance online for a marginal savings or, if you’re planning on racking up enough days, opt for the Epic or Ikon pass.

When to ski in Vermont

Killington’s season often starts earlier and ends later than other Vermont ski resorts, in part because of its cold temps and dedication to snowmaking as soon as possible. In general, February and March tend to be some of Vermont’s finest months for skiing when the mountains have a solid base and snowmaking guns are still blasting.

Top tips

• Set your alarm. Vermont’s base areas can get crowded fast, and an hour or two after the lifts open is when lines are longest. Get to the mountain early for first tracks and to avoid a mess of people. 

• Don’t miss one of the greatest ski snacks of all time: a hot waffle from Waffle Cabin. 

• If you’re renting equipment, ask about demo skis and boards. These are typically higher quality and caliber than standard rentals and are worth the extra cost.