A first-time guide to Ile de Ré, France

It’s a wonder Île de Ré exists. For starters, this French island is crêpe-flat (and its beaches are the same color as pancake batter). When the swell comes rolling in along the west and south coasts – this is the Atlantic Ocean after all – it’s difficult to comprehend how the sea doesn’t swallow the island whole. 

Here’s an island with a history. This isn’t your simple fly-and-flop, the architecture here tells the stories of wealthy merchants that traded  Île de Ré’s salt and wine for stones to build their homes. Cycle into the heart of the island, and you’ll either find yourself surrounded by vineyards or on the curious criss-cross of paths raised above the salt flats, where oyster dredgers’ huts look over party hat-shaped piles of salt. 

Extremely accessible, with a bridge linking it to La Rochelle on the mainland, it’s not surprising that it’s a favorite with bucket-and-spade waving French families as soon as the holidays hit. There’s a beach for everyone, be your style windsurfing, paddleboarding, or hiding from the wind among the sand dunes with a good book. 

When should I go to Île de Ré? 

This island is a French cliché: highly seasonal and often awash with Parisians during the summer holidays. Visit in winter and it will feel pretty empty; the year-round population is under 18,000 in the whole island. There’s something oddly magical about winter, though, when the Atlantic storms sweep in, and since the island is linked to the mainland by a bridge you don’t need to worry about getting marooned in inclement weather. Summer visitors are in the millions, and the vast majority arrive in July and August. The weather is reliably warm and sunny, but accommodation is at a premium, and you’ll need to book well in advance. 

June and September are lovely months to visit. Accommodation and activities are open for high season, and salt harvesting season (June–September) is underway.

Most of the island’s festivals take place in the summer. Jazz au Phare (Jazz at the Lighthouse) runs for five days in early August at the Phare des Baleines, the lighthouse at the westernmost tip of the island. The paid festival runs alongside a programme of free events, including café concerts.

How much time should I spend in Île de Ré? 

How long is a piece of string, or rather, how much do you love the beach? If you want to holiday French-style, camp out here for a whole month, spending long, lazy days at the beach, or pedaling languidly from oyster shack to oyster shack. Brits, and especially Americans, unless happily retired, don’t benefit from the same holiday allowance. You could easily see the whole island in three or four days, and that’s exploring by bike: the cycle trails are all flat. When I was a child we’d go for a week. That worked well, but I’d never have said no to longer. Factor in travel time to La Rochelle, the mainland city from which you access the Ile de Ré. There are direct flights from the UK, from the United States you’ll likely arrive in Paris or Bordeaux, each 2 ½ hours from La Rochelle by train.

Is it easy to get in and around Île de Ré? 

Cycling isn’t just a mode of transport here, it’s a religion. Île de Ré isn’t car-free, but driving isn’t the most efficient way of getting from A to B, partly since parking is limited and often very expensive, and partly because all of the roads are pockmarked with dozens of crossings for pedestrians and cyclists, who have priority. Many of the historic little towns, such as Saint-Martin-de-Ré, have narrow little cobbled streets, making squeezing through in an SUV stressful and unpleasant. There’s also a fantastic network of electric shuttle buses on the island, completely free for visitors. 

Upon arrival (by road, via the bridge), there’s a compulsory entry toll of between 8€-16€, depending on the season. This fee goes towards preserving the island’s nature, and funding fantastic projects like the free shuttle buses. There’s no fee for leaving. It’s also possible to arrive by sailing boat, and you can bring your bike on board.

Top things to do in Île de Ré 

Kayak the marshes at Loix 

Kayaking around Loix is a little like parkour on water. Not because it’s extreme – far from it in fact, it’s the perfect day out for families, but because the constantly changing tides mean that you can paddle up little creeks where you’ll often need to slide your kayak down mudbanks, or wade through the mud, to get out again. Canoë Salé runs guided tours which are invaluable in such a labyrinth. From above the warren of marshes and salt flats looks like a patchwork quilt.

Off the water, Loix looks like one of the more uninspiring towns on the island, but it’s one of the most lived in, with heaps of character. It’s home to the island’s best bookshop, Atelier Quillet, which has an on-site café serving coffees made with locally roasted beans. There’s also a workshop specializing in the restoration of old documents, and for a guided visit costing just 5€ you can see how they do it.

Explore the pretty streets of Saint-Martin-de-Ré 

A fishing town with a strategic location, Saint-Martin-de-Ré came into its own in the Middle Ages, when it was used for trade and as a military base. In the 17th century, the famous military engineer Vauban fortified the town to resist Dutch and English invasions, and much of the ramparts and imposing entrance arch are still standing today. The streets look as though they’ve been plucked from the imagination of an interior designer. Most of the houses are whitewashed or pastel-coloured, with brightly painted shutters and an abundance of creeping plants and bulging window boxes. Along the old harbor are heaps of restaurants, most specializing in seafood and some very upmarket. Locals head to no-frills attached Le Bistrot du Marin.  

Learn to surf at Le Bois Plage

Particularly during the summer, the surf on Île de Ré tends to be pretty gentle, with consistent waves perfect for beginners. Surf’in Ré has their surf school on Gros Joncs Beach, Le Bois Plage, a golden sand beach framed by dunes and a long, raised wooden boardwalk. 

Eat oysters in the salt flats 

The only thing there’s more of than oyster fields on Île de Ré is vineyards, and wine and oysters make for a heady competition. In London, the saying goes that you’re never more than a few feet from a rat. In the Ile de Ré, the same could be said for oyster shacks. Particularly worth visiting is La Cabane Océane, where you can eat oysters al fresco with a view over the sea.

Flop 

There’s a beach for everyone here, whether your style is sunbathing, relaxing with a chilled glass of wine in hand, or filling your day with surfing, kite surfing, windsurfing, paddleboarding. Among the prettiest is Trousse Chemise Beach, which rather oddly translates as ‘Shirt Bag Beach’. Just offshore is a sandbank known as Le Banc du Bûcheron, only visible at low tide. Arrive at the right moment and you can walk out and picnic on the sandbar. Many of the beaches have rocks in the water; pack appropriate shoes.

My favorite thing to do in Île de Ré 

It has to be seeing the donkeys wearing pajamas in Saint-Martin-de-Ré. This is pure nostalgia, but as a kid I was absolutely fascinated by the sight of donkeys dressed in striped trousers. 

How much money do I need for Île de Ré? 

While restaurants and activities tend to cost roughly the same as on the mainland, accommodation can be significantly higher, particularly in the summer holidays. Cards are widely accepted, but it’s a good idea to have some cash, particularly for the little oyster shacks. The following prices are based on the high season (July-August).

• Campsite: From €30 for two people with their own tent

• Basic room for two: From €150

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): From €100

• Bike rental: From €14/day

• Shuttle bus ticket: free!

• Coffee: From €1.50 for an espresso

• Sandwich: €6-12

• Dinner for two: €50+

• Beer/pint at the bar: €8