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Leave your own dining customs at the door in Paris. Amir Hamja for Lonely Planet
On the whole, Parisians are big on decorum and etiquette and abide by a set of unspoken rules. One of the most important rules is to always greet shopkeepers with a quick "bonjour" upon opening the door to their store, as a basic courtesy. If you’ve ever found yourself getting major side-eye on the Paris metro, it could have been because you failed to relinquish your fold-out seat during rush hour, forcing other riders to push up against each other at awkward angles. Or because you put your feet up on the seat in front of you, a clear sign of impoliteness.
If you want to endear yourself to the Parisians – or at a minimum avoid being tagged as just another tourist behaving badly – there are certain codes of conduct you should know. Even the most well-intentioned tourist can run afoul of local customs in one of the most-visited cities in the world, where tourists and Parisians collide, so here are some dos and don'ts to keep in mind while visiting the French capital.
1. Do keep to the side and let other passengers get off the metro or train before you board yourself. While this may seem like elementary information for those who regularly use public transportation back home, it bears repeating for those who lead car-centric lifestyles. If you see other locals muscle their way through before others have disembarked, resist the urge to do the same. You won’t get on any faster, and all you’ll do is create a human logjam that will delay the train’s departure and mark you as just another annoying tourist.
2. Do not open the doors until the train has come to a full stop. Keep in mind that not all Paris metro trains are automatic. Older cars require you to either push a button or lift a latch manually to open the doors, but it’s dangerous to open the doors prematurely. If there’s no button or latch, the doors will open automatically.
3. Do not remain seated during rush hour, or you may get an earful. This only applies if you choose to sit on the fold-out chairs called strapontins, which come with the tacit contractual agreement that, once the metro car becomes full, you’re expected to relinquish the seat and get on your feet to let more people get on the train.
4. Do take your backpack off. When boarding a full metro or train, please take the knapsack off and carry it by your side. Your spatial awareness from the back is zilch, and more often than not, particularly during rush hour, you are likely hitting people full in the face with every small move. Inconsiderate backpackers are among the metro’s most annoying types of riders.
5. Though it should go without saying, do not use your speakerphone on public transportation, and refrain from speaking on the phone too loudly aboard any public transportation. Listen to your music or podcast through headsets.
6. Don’t put your feet up on the seat in front of you. It’s not just frowned upon, it’s considered boorish behavior that is punishable by €60 ($US65) on the Paris metro.
7. Don’t follow the crowd blindly. If you don’t pay attention and are caught entering an unauthorized one-way tunnel or entryway, you may have to cough up €25 (US$27) in fines.
8. On the bus, do signal your request to stop well in advance as a courtesy to the driver.
9. Do pack accordingly. If you’re traveling on France’s high-speed trains, note that you’re expected to be able to carry all your bags yourself in one single trip. The limit is two bags or suitcases that measure a maximum of 70 x 90 x 50cm (28 x 35 x 20in), along with one handbag. Bags must also carry ID tags.
10. Do book online and buy your tickets ahead of your visit. While some attractions like the Musée d’Orsay and Eiffel Tower still sell tickets on-site, you risk long lines, long wait times and sold-out dates as e-ticket holders are given priority. Likewise, be sure to honor the time slot for your visit, or you could be denied entry.
11. Don’t forget to bring your ID if you have purchased discounted tickets as a student or senior, as you may be asked to provide proof of age.
12. Do be mindful of your attire if your itinerary that day involves visiting a place of worship, such as the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris or the Grand Mosque of Paris. This might mean refraining from wearing shirts with expletives or sleeveless tops and removing your hat before entering the premises.
13. Do take advantage of the fact that some galleries and museums, including the Musée d’Orsay, Musée de l’Armée and the Musée National de la Marine, will loan wheelchairs, folding chairs and walking sticks for free upon presentation of your ID. This service is particularly useful for people with mobility issues.
14. Do prepare to have your bags searched by security. Remember that the rules are similar at many monuments and tourist attractions: knives, scissors, highly flammable items like aerosol cans, and excessive amounts of food and drink are forbidden. Suffice to say, it is also forbidden to eat and drink in exhibit spaces.
15. Do lower your voice. Some of us are cluelessly unaware of just how much our voices carry in a country like France, where the volume of conversation is generally much softer. Several monuments and museums even remind visitors on their websites to avoid loud conversations. Don’t embarrass yourself and your entourage by having to be shushed.
16. Do be respectful and considerate when taking photos. Refrain from taking too much time at popular artworks and blocking the flow of visitor traffic. Be warned that flash photography is generally banned at all museums and galleries. Likewise, the use of selfie sticks and full-sized tripods is also banned at most major attractions.
17. Do take cues from fellow picnickers in the park. Technically, alcohol is forbidden in the city’s parks, gardens and public spaces. But authorities have been known to turn a blind eye. It’s common to see bottles of wine and beer shared among picnickers parked along the Canal St-Martin or on the banks of the Seine. That said, comply cooperatively if you’re asked to put it away. What authorities won’t tolerate, however, is disruptive displays of public drunkenness, which is forbidden.
18. Do check for no-smoking signs. Smokers should be aware that lighting up is banned in more than 70 parks, gardens and public squares across the city. If you don’t want to incur a €38 (US$41) fine, make sure to check the signage at park entrances.
19. Do pick up after yourself. It’s common in summer to find outdoor garbage bins overflowing with trash, particularly in areas that are popular for picnickers, such as the Parc du Champ de Mars at the foot of the Eiffel Tower or the banks of the Seine. But leaving your trash on the ground attracts rodents and is an insult to garbage collectors. Take any excess garbage home with you and dispose of it accordingly. Otherwise, you risk a €135 fine (US$146).
20. Don’t fasten love locks to bridges across the city. They pose a danger to the structural integrity of historic bridges and landmarks and are tantamount to vandalism.
21. Do ask permission before you shoot someone’s photo. France has strict privacy laws. If you take images where the people are clearly identifiable, by law you are required to get their written consent. This is especially true if you intend to publish the photos on social media. If the subjects are blurry and not identifiable, you’re in the clear. As a general rule, make a habit of asking the charming boulangerie owner or flea market vendor if you can take their photo before snapping away. More often than not, they will be pleased that you had the courtesy to ask first, as so many others do not.
22. Don’t fly a drone. They are strictly forbidden over Paris' skies without proper authorization from Paris police. Failure to do so runs a €75,000 (US$80,900) fine and a one-year prison sentence.
23. Do give pedestrians priority. Overall, keep in mind that pedestrians generally have the right of way. Bikes and e-scooters are banned from traveling on sidewalks. Offenders risk €135 fines (US$146).
24. Don’t ride a bike while talking on the phone or wearing headphones or wireless earbuds. It’s punishable by a fine of €135 ($US146).
25. Do wear a helmet. Helmets aren’t legally mandatory for adult cyclists, but they are for kids under the age of 12. That said, it’s highly recommended.
26. Do keep in mind that, sadly, spontaneous walk-ins at Paris’s dining hot spots are nearly impossible now. Online bookings can fill up fast, so try to reserve months or at least a few weeks in advance. And don’t flake out on reservations. Cancel in advance if you must, but don’t be a no-show.
27. Do leave your own dining customs and expectations at the door if they include regularly requesting substitutions. At mid- to high-end restaurants in Paris, French diners understand that dishes are carefully developed by expert chefs and that trying to rewrite recipes can be seen as an insult. If, however, you have allergies or dietary restrictions, let the restaurant know well in advance so that they can prepare ahead of time.
28. Do keep in mind that most restaurants in Paris have set dining hours. In general, lunch is 12pm to 2:30pm, while dinner hour starts after 7pm. If you’re looking for mid-afternoon dining options, look for cafes and restaurants with signs that read “service continu,” which means that the kitchen is open all day. Also remember that many restaurants will close up shop for a whole month in summer, generally over July and/or August. Some of the top-rated restaurants in the city also close the entire weekend among chefs who prioritize work-life balance.
29. Don’t be fooled by servers who try to upsell you bottled or fizzy water. If you just want tap water, ask for “une carafe d’eau” (pronounced "oun karaf doe"), which is free. Also, bear in mind that the complimentary bread in France doesn’t come with butter as it’s meant to mop up the sauce on your plate, a practice called "saucer." And while once a request for "le doggy bag" would have elicited chortles of mockery and disdain from your Paris server, it is now acceptable to ask the restaurant to wrap up any uneaten leftovers. Know, however, that they do have the right to make you pay a modest sum for a takeout container.
30. Do feel free to tip if you had a particularly wonderful dining experience and want to express your appreciation. Though a 15% service charge is already added to your bill, it’s become increasingly common, even among the French, to leave a 5 to 10% tip.
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