A cross-island road leads from the village of Faga’itua up over a pass before winding slowly down to Masefau, a village that looks too idyllic to be true.
Back at the pass, a turn-off takes you down a narrow, potholed road to Sa’ilele, which has one of the island’s loveliest swimming beaches. The sandy area below the large rock outcrop at the beach’s western end is an excellent place for a picnic.