There is a small government-run guesthouse next to the Minaret of Jam. Rooms are simple, but the mattresses are comfortable and the shower is one of the most welcome you’ll take in the country. Meals are hearty. In Garmao, the nearest village 15km away up the Jam Rud, the Hotel Jam (70Afg) offers the usual chaikhana deal of a space on the floor for the price of dinner.