Sim Sim

Now a decade old, this one-time upstart is something of an establishment favourite. Despite its try-hard-and-fail decor, which is just tacky, the service and food here are top notch. The dishes are international with a strong emphasis on Italian cuisine and include squid salad with pesto sauce, crayfish bisque and even Wagyu steaks. Prices are high, but it's also one of the few places in Turkmenistan to offer a good wine selection. Trying to find the restaurant on your own is hard work; it's unsigned above a supermarket – take a cab, most drivers know it.