Çeşme

This charming red-painted cellar in the backstreets between the train station and the Hotel Paýtagt attracts a thoroughly local crowd, but you'll be made to feel very welcome. It's all about the sublime kebabs here and there's no menu, which can make it a bit tricky for non-Russian speakers; but it's hard to go wrong with the selection of meats being grilled and the choice of delicious accompanying sauces and salads (the staff will bring you a selection and you can choose).