The palmeraie stretches inland along the Oued Gabès. It looks its best during the pomegranate season in November and December, when the trees are weighed down with huge ruby-red fruit. It begins on the coast at Ghannouche and ends more than 4km west of Gabès at the oasis village of Chenini (not to be confused with Chenini near Tataouine). This western section is the most interesting part. Walking is the best way to explore.
You can follow the short cut used by the calèches (horse-drawn carriages), crossing the oued (dry riverbed) by the bridge behind the bus station and turning left onto the Chenini road. The road then twists and turns through the palmeraie to El Aouadid, where a left turn leads down to Chenini. It’s a pleasant walk of about one hour.
Chenini itself has not much more to offer other than loads of souvenir stalls. A path (negotiable by bicycle) heads off around the back of a partially reconstructed Roman dam and winds through the palmeraie to an open-air cafe tucked away in the palms. It’s about a 20-minute walk and you can continue along the oued to the end of the valley. Climb up the small escarpment for a view of the surrounding area.
To get back to Gabès from Chenini, take bus 7, which runs between the village and rue Haj Djilani Lahbib, or pay around 3DT for a taxi. Horse-drawn carriages (15DT), which can hold up to four people, are a popular alternative to walking; find them behind the bus station.