Ko Pha-Ngan's most authentically local food market is in the far north, where every Sunday in front of the village pier, a series of red tables and chairs appear beside a stage where locals play live. This is surrounded by stalls serving food you will not see in any of the 'night markets' elsewhere. Be brave and get stuck in. Try the deep-fried fish patty, or the fish in spiced coconut – grilled inside a banana leaf tube.
If it's something sweet you're after, nám chah (fresh sugared coconut, wrapped and barbecued in palm leaves) is a delicious, chewy snack. Grab a pile and head for the pier, pull up a reed mat like the locals for 20B, and watch the passing parade. On a warm summer's eve, you will not get a more blissful picture of local Thai life.