Thousands of kaveka (sooty terns) nest year-round on these islets and lay thousands of eggs daily.
Access to Motu Hemeni is prohibited in order to protect the species. Teuaua, the neighbouring islet, is accessible by speedboat when the sea is calm. If the conditions are right (a rarity), you can accompany the islanders when they gather the eggs, which are considered a delicacy.
It’s not for the fainthearted – you’ll need to jump on to a rocky ledge and clamber up the rock using a rope. As you approach the nests, the kaveka swoop at you and their cries are deafening.
If, despite all this, the experience still attracts you, wear a hat.