The island’s main settlement, Vaitape is not the most evocative town, but it's a great place to do a bit of shopping, take care of banking needs and just get a feel for the way locals really live.

Vaitape is at its liveliest on Sunday morning, when numerous food stalls selling such delicacies as pahua taioro (clams marinated in coconut seawater sauce) and firifiri (doughnuts) take position along the main road.